Something New in Honor of Someone New

Not much to write, but here are a couple meals from last week.  Below is some fresh sweet potato gnocchi in a roasted red pepper and corn cream sauce.  Next to it, is an arugula salad that Vanessa made.  This creamy pasta was enjoyed by all three house mates, after a weekend of everyone being out of town.

Sweet Potato Gnocchi

in a Roasted Red Pepper and Corn Cream Sauce

Arugula Salad

This past week, I had some very exciting news.  My brother and sister-in-law in Los Angeles welcomed a new baby boy into their lives.  As I write now, I am out in California visiting them with my sister and parents.  The new boy is very, very cute!  He was born Friday night, and in honor of the new arrival we tried something new for dinner on Saturday.  I have a great Asian Cookbook with really tasty recipes from China, India, Thailand, Cambodia, Burma, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and Singapore.  I have made many dishes in the past from this book, but Saturday night I tried my hand at Burmese food for the first time.

Dry Burmese Fish Curry

with Rice, Broccoli and Caramelized Papaya

The fish curry is made with tilapia.  The sauce is a very straight forward South Asian dish: onion, garlic, ginger, chillies, turmeric, fish sauce and lime.  I suppose the book called it a "dry curry" because the dry ingredients are all chopped up in a food processor, while the fish marinates in fish sauce.  The dry ingredients are then cooked, and then the fish is added.  It is finished with the lime. 

Vanessa made the broccoli and the papaya.  I really recommend making the papaya.  Chop it up, and sear it for a minute or so on a very high heat, adding a little salt, pepper and lime juice.  The trick is to not cook it too long or on too low a heat, so that the sugars in the fruit quickly caramelize.  We topped everything with some fresh cilantro.  Very nice.

New food for my new nephew!  Hurray!!!  Stay tuned for the next post.  Tonight, I am cooking at my brother's house for eight people.  It is a bit of a feast, and it is a bit ridiculous. 

Tuesday: The Most Romantic Night of the Week

Our housemate Sarah works crazy hours, and is only home for dinner about half of the week.  One night, Tuesday, is a guaranteed "No Sarah Night."  So Vanessa and I have taken this unsuspecting day of the week, and through no plan or premeditation turned it into the most romantic evening of the week.

A wonderful treat for me, has been that Vanessa is sharing more of the cooking, and mind you, doing so in a positively delicious manner.  A couple Tuesdays ago Vanessa made a linguine and mussels marinara.  The red sauce was heavily flavored with chunks of garlic, diced vidalia onion, and wine.  It had a little spice to it, and an amazing fishy flavor.  The mussels had been sitting overnight in a bowl of salt water to keep them alive.  When they cooked and opened up in the sauce, it was like adding a rich, salty fish stock to the tomatoes.  The thrill of eating this pasta came from taking the mussels like a spoon, and with chunks of garlic, onion, tomatoes, and broth, devouring the crustaceans out of their shells.  Honestly, the mussels and sauce were so delicious that the linguine itself was almost superfluous... almost.  It was as good a pasta-with-seafood dish as any I've had in a restaurant. 

I am sorry to say however, that in our gastronomic euphoria and slight inebriation, we neglected to snap any photos to post.  My apologies.  My imagery will have to suffice.

The next Tuesday, we reprised our romantic dinner.  I was away at work all day, while Vanessa was home on a day off.  The preceding night I had taken two inexpensive cuts of lamb shank, and marinated them in dijon mustard, and a rub of ground cumin, fennel, herbs de provence, salt and pepper.  In the early afternoon, Vanessa took the shanks and browned them, then reduced the heat and added wine, stock, carrots, onion, celery, garlic, and fresh rosemary.  The shanks slow-braised for close to five hours. 

While they cooked, Vanessa had time to go about her day: getting her hair done, doing cartwheels, juggling torches - typical stuff.  When I got home from work, I returned to a wonderfully aromatic house and a beautiful straight-haired woman who greatly resembled my girlfriend (FYI: Vanessa is a curly-haired redhead).  It was a beautiful day, and the sun was getting lower in they sky.  We decided to drive to the beach for a sunset stroll.  If the smell of braising lamb had not already set the mood, then a walk along a sand bar at low tide did the trick. 

When we returned home, the aromas permeating the air were even more intense than when we had left.  We finished up the cooking.  Vanessa got to work on her famous garlic mashed potatoes, prepared this night with the addition of minced scallion and parsley.  Meanwhile, I took over the main dish, removing the shanks, and reducing the sauce.  When the liquid had largely evaporated and the flavor had concentrated, I stirred in some sour cream to further thicken the gravy.  I also threw together an arugula salad with a homemade raspberry wine vinaigrette and some vegetables.  One of us thought to throw a baguette into the oven to toast.  And before long, we were ready to dine.

Vanessa with Her Straightened Hair at Our Last Romantic Dinner

We like to say that Vanessa specializes in comfort food and I specialize in gourmet food.  This dinner was a wonderful meeting of the two. At its core, it was meat, potatoes and a salad.  But the flavor and tenderness of the lamb was just outstanding.  And the starch and vegetables were perfect complements.  Also adding to the experience was some Enrico Rava, an Italian trumpeter, in the background and some Don Miguel Gascón, our favorite bottle of Malbec wine, in the foreground.

Slow Braised Lamb Shank

with Vegetables and Garlic Mashed Potatoes

Arugula Salad with Raspberry Wine Vinegarette

Warm Baguette and Gascon Malbec

Sadly, Vanessa had to work the following Tuesday night.  But we shall see what the coming weeks have in store.

Dinner and a Movie

Sarah was having an online dinner date with her California boyfriend, and so Vanessa and I followed suit with dinner and a movie. 

Vanessa

Two personalized vegetarian nacho platters, containing: chips, salsa, sour cream, cheddar cheese, black beans, corn, red pepper, red onion, serrano chilies (HOT!), and scallions.  We started with some grapefruit, watching previews while the cheese melted over the nachos in the oven.  Also we both had a beer.  Mine was a Raging Bitch Belgian Style Indian Pale Ale and Vanessa had a homemade Blackberry Wheat Micro Brew gifted to her by her friend who makes beer.

The movie we watched was The Lives of Others, which I must say, is an amazing film.  It won an Oscar in 2006 or 2007 for best foreign language film.  The story is set in East Berlin, in the height of corruption and government surveillance.  A writer who is a loyal communist and a good man becomes heavily scrutinized by the state for his associations with blacklisted artists.  The film develops around a Stasi (secret police) officer who is spying on the writer, and becomes witness to the corruption destroying his life.  It is a very powerful film about good people in bad situations.  It was really beautifully done, and clearly, was a wonderful pairing with nachos.  Here's the food:

Nacho Platters and Beer



Sui Mai

Sui mai, or "shumai," as it may be pronounced, is one of the most common dumplings found in Cantonese dim sum.  There are countless variations of this dish throughout Asian cuisines, but to me sui mai has always meant one thing: sticky, steaming, savory morsels of pork, shrimp and scallions in a thin, starchy, open-topped wrapper. 

My older brother first introduced me to the steamy world of dim sum when I was about ten years old.  Visiting him in Boston while he was in college, meant that I was introduced to the foods that he was discovering away from home.  It was in this time of my life that I first tried Indian food, and it was in this time that I first set foot into a Cantonese dim sum parlor. 

For those who have not had the pleasure, dim sum is sort of a Chinese-brunch version of what the Spanish call tapas.  They are small dishes.  Frequently, but not exclusively, they are dumplings, and they may be steamed, deep fried, pan fried, or boiled.  Historically, they developed in China as a snack to accompany tea.  Dim sum parlors took off, and the whole affair developed into its own branch of the restaurant industry.  In classic dim sum parlors, Chinese women push around steel carts carrying towering piles of steaming bowls, plates of fried goodness, and the inevitable dishes of unidentifiables to western eaters. 

The whole affair is lot of fun!  It is always inexpensive, and it is always delicious! 

Recently this month, Sarah, Vanessa and I took our swing at homemade dim sum.  We made three types of sui mai: the classic shrimp/pork dumpling, an all pork dumpling, and for Sarah, after seeing that our chicken had gone bad, an impromptu chicken nugget sui mai.  I think that I may need to patent that last one.  It was pretty awesome.  Here are some pictures:

Sui Mai in the Steamer

Shrimp/Pork Sui Mai on a Flower Plate

The Last Chicken Nugget Sui Mai and Chicken Nuggets

The shrimp and pork dumpling was from a recipe that I found on-line.  Then with the leftover ground pork, I made up a dumpling filling with ground fennel, soy sauce, scallion, sriracha, fish sauce, a little sesame oil and of course, the meat.  The chicken nugget dumpling was chopped up nugget,  soy sauce, fish sauce and scallion.

YUM YUM DIM SUM!!!!!!!!!!

Pizza and Sushi

Well it's been a while since my first couple of posts, and imaginably, some tastiness has transpired.  Where to begin...

Since Sarah, Vanessa and I moved into the Norwalk apartment each of the gals have trumpeted a dinner call.  "Let's make homemade pizza!" Vanessa would declare every week for four to five months.

Or, "OH!!!  I want to make sushi!" from Sarah, for just as long..

Well finally it happened.  Not in one night mind you, but within one week, the ladies finally got what they wanted.  Let's start with the pizza, since this was cooked the weekend before the sushi.

I actually found this to be not a big deal to cook.  Vanessa, a woman possessing the baking skills that all men must dream of in a girlfriend, handled the dough, while I cut up and prepared the toppings.  When making homemade pizza, I really prefer a real rustic look, with the dough rolled out into whatever amorphous shape is easiest to attain while creating the largest pie.  I also generally prefer thin crust pizza.

Here are a couple of our pies:

 The Meat Pie

Beef Kielbasa, Pepperoni, Red Peppers, Caramelized Onions, 

with Asiago Cheese, Parmesan Cheese, Tomato Sauce and Herbs

On the periphery of this photo you will notice some of another pie.  That one was asparagus and caramelized onion with mozzarella and parmesan cheeses, and red sauce and basil.  All good stuff.

The Veggie Pie

Asparagus, Mushroom, Red Pepper

with Three Cheeses, Red Sauce and Herbs

The pizza was delicious!  We forwent the formal sit down meal this night in favor of a eat-while-you-work kind of thing.  We were always making one pizza, while another one cooked, while another one was devoured, all with a steady flow of wine in our glasses.  A good time was had.


Then the next week end... damn.

You need to understand, this was the night of the Superbowl.  While not heavily vested in either of the teams, I was looking forward to sitting on the couch and doing nothing.  I was planning on making a big platter of nachos and sitting down to watch the game.  Sarah was thinking otherwise.  After week after week of hearing the same line, "OH!  We should make sushi!"  I succumbed to peer pressure.  Okay, fine, on the night of the Superbowl we can make sushi and watch the game.

There are a few problems here.  Firstly, of all the cuisines in the world, there is perhaps none so refined, none so specialized, and none so artful as Japanese.  I am well aware of this, and not surprisingly to readers of this blog, I am rather a sushi elitist.  I was not about to make mediocre sushi if I could help it.  Second problem, I was away in the afternoon and Sarah did not begin to make the rice until I got home and the game was about to begin.  Third problem, we wanted to make a few types of sushi.  Fourth problem, Sarah did not make enough rice.  Fifth problem, we were using a kit, which contained a novella of instructions that we did not take the time to fully read.  Sixth problem, one of our two fishes could not be eaten raw (apparently).  Seventh problem, and perhaps the worst of all, I was already hungry.

So the game began, and with it, the preparations for the rice.  Sushi rice takes a long time to prepare.  You need to get it just right so that its fluffy and sticky.  Like everything having to do with sushi preparation, it is an art.  Customarily, when someone apprentices to make sushi professionally, the first skill they must master is how to make the rice.  Many sushi masters with workers under them still prefer to prepare the rice themselves, to get it just right.  Our rice, after some minor bottom burning (from following the instructions about the heat instead of going with our instincts), turned out all right - mostly.  The only real problem was the quantity.  It took a little over an hour to prepare the rice.  Thank heavens for DVR.

All the while that Sarah was working on the rice, I was chopping away with my Shun knives.  I spent forever, making the finest matchsticks of carrot and cucumber imaginable.  I cut thin strips of chicken breast, covered them in panko and deep fried them.  I diced scallions, and dry roasted a mix of black and white sesame seeds.  I prepared the tuna into what I was guessing was the right shaped cut for rolls (again, another art that I knew absolutely nothing about.  Then upon reading that Mahi Mahi should not be had raw, I threw it in a pan with some ponzu, soy sauce, mirin and ginger.  What a pain in the ass!  It would have been half time by now, and I had the television paused and still hadn't watched a minute.

I started to snack on raw tuna sashimi, and pick at whatever I could find.  Poor Sarah, I was so hungry, I must have been quite obnoxious to be around.  When all of the prep work was done, I left Sarah to make the rolls, while I grumpily watched some of the game.  My stomach at this point made it all too obvious to me how little I actually cared about these teams.  I just wanted to eat.  The hell with the Superbowl - it was nearing 10:00.

Two and a half hours after we started working, we sat down at the table to eat.

Tuna Sushi and Sashimi

Tempura Chicken Sushi (and extra tempura chicken)

Cucumber/Asparagus Sushi

Carrot/Cucumber/Scallion Sushi

The Rest of the Table

Mahi Mahi at the bottom

Je Ne Sais Quoi Is Usually Just Pig

 

I grew up in a partially kosher house.  What this means is that my mother, the cook, had grown up in my grandmother’s kosher house.  So, like many Jews, mom grappled with the relevance of kashrut in the modern age: an allegiance to tradition, a respect for Talmudic law, a nostalgia for her Jewish upbringing, and of course the unorthodox deliciousness of such forbidden fruits as lobster, shrimp, scallops, meat with cheese, and yes… pork.

Mom went through phases of being more or less kosher throughout her life.  In the early years, trying to instill Jewish values on her ignorant children, the house was pretty damn kosher.  For those gentiles who may be reading this blog, this means that dairy products were never consumed in the same meal as meat products (or in Yiddish: we do not mix milchik with fleishik).  We used three separate dish and silverware sets for dairy, kosher meat, and “oops, don’t tell” meals.  We did not cook any of the forbidden foods listed above, and while Jewish law also dictates the correct kosher way to kill an animal, we only sometimes bought certified kosher meat, but did generally stick to animals that could be killed and still be kosher – animals with kosher potential, if you will. 

(For more on kosher laws, check out this link: http://www.jewfaq.org/kashrut.htm)

Life events challenge one’s religious beliefs, and mom’s kosher kitchen waxed and waned with her ever-developing religious convictions. 

For my dad’s part, he fully supported mom’s efforts to instill Jewish values in the offspring and to generate a sense of Jewish identity.  However, his role in the kitchen was generally reserved to official table setter and clean-up detail.  He is, as I mentioned in the first post, very responsible for the meals that transpired outside of the home. 

For the men in the family, the lure of sin in a restaurant was just too much to combat.  We fell like wounded animals for the bad stuff: New England clam chowder, baby back ribs, baked stuffed lobster, shrimp scampi, fried calamari, and most everything in a Chinese restaurant. 

My sister stayed kosher, and ultimately adopted vegetarianism.  My brother has held onto the “no meat with cheese” rule, and aside from that, plunged deep into delicious sin.  And as for myself, I found a second religion in food.  I remain a proud Jew, but there is literally nothing I will not eat (at least once).  I have explored animal organs and extremities, and have happily chowed down on cow brains, fried crickets (prepared myself), chicken feet, and the wonderfully flavorful kidney and liver meats.  I have enjoyed llama, elk, buffalo, turtle, frog, goose, and even rattlesnake.  Whenever I see a new food, I need to try it.  I am a masochist for spice, and believe that the proper amount is just a hair under the threshold of pain.  I like bold flavors and interesting textures.  I am absurdly well-traveled for my age (again, thanks Mom and Dad), and have had the pleasure of dining on the regional cuisines of France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Israel, Argentina, Uruguay, Mexico and Brazil (and Canada? Hey, Toronto has good Chinese food). 

In any case, the point is, I like food. 

To return to kashrut, or really the lack thereof, I gradually became aware of two new culinary worlds: the world of aquatic crustaceans and the world of the dirty, dirty hog.  My childhood restaurant excursions did a lot to introduce me to tasty sea creatures, but it was really not until college that I learned the true glory of the pig.  For example, the pulled pork sandwich – MY GOD!  I refuse to believe that God does not want me to eat something so amazing.  I believe that God is kind and loving, and believes in an order to this universe.  The existence of barbecued pulled pork on a bun is a testament to God’s vision.

If I may throw in a tangent, last night I went out with an old friend in Stamford, CT to this bar/restaurant called Butterfield8.  Very tasty pulled pork sliders.  Highly recommended.  My friend got diver sea scallops, which was also good (if you’re into black truffle risotto, and all that).

So in college I learned what nice things could be done with pig.  I have Steve largely to thank for that (my housemate/chef/friend).  He is the man who ingeniously combined bacon with a donut bread pudding to create the most caloric, fattening and absolutely richest thing I have ever eaten.  To quote my best friend Warren, commenting on Crumbs cupcakes, “It’s so good.  It tastes like diabetes.”

Steve showed me what you could do with pork loins and pork chops.  I was converted (to pork – still Jewish).  A couple years later, and I have started to come up with some nice pork dinners of my own.  Now with my own kitchen, Vanessa and I dine on swine.  Enjoy the photos:

Sage Encrusted Pork Loin and Roasted Root Vegetables

with Dijon Mustard Reduction

 The sage is from our plant.  We grow very few fresh herbs since we moved into our current apartment at the beginning of autumn, but sage is one of them.  If I remember correctly the root vegetables here were celeriac, turnip, Yukon potato and onion. Also of cool notability, Sarah painted the plate.

German/Chinese Pork Chops with Potato

The pork was marinated over night in a sauce of beer, soy sauce, mirin, cider vinegar, ginger and sugar. While the meat was broiled, the sauce was reduced and thickened into a heavy German style gravy with the help of some cornstarch.  The beer helped tenderize the meat and the sauce was a nice sweet and sour.

Just in case any friends or friends of friends are reading this, I will point out that my housemate Sarah is still very much kosher.  But she is a very workable kosher.  No multiple dish sets, willing to eat around shrimp in a paella – all around good deal.  Sarah is only home for dinner about half the week, so the pork and shellfish meals tend to be on nights when it is just Vanessa and me.  Things work well.  We all eat delicious food.

That’s all for today.  I hope you have enjoyed David’s Plate, and please stop by again to see how the girls and I have been eating. 

Happy eating!

Blogging About What I'm Eating

Welcome to David’s Plate!

As you may have surmised, I am David, the lover of food, the amateur chef, and as of today, the author of this blog.  I have had the intention of documenting and sharing my gastronomic exploits for some time.  However, as my work keeps me in front of a computer far longer than I desire, I approached entering the blogosphere with more than a little hesitancy and trepidation.  From the get go, I will make clear my intentions to share and discuss a few meals per post about once a week.  I would love to do more, but hey – I need time to cook!

So who am I?  And why on Earth do I eat so well?

Well, I cannot claim the authenticity of a professional chef.  I did not come from hardship, scrounge a job one day washing dishes, and slowly work my way up in a restaurant, learning to cook out of necessity.  Nothing so romantic, nothing so bona fide.  In fact, my only brief teenage work in a restaurant was just that, a menial teenage summer gig as a bus boy.  That was where I started in the restaurant business and that is where I ended.  At the time, I was not cut out for it, and though I am a different person now, I still don’t know if it is for me.  My cap comes off to anyone who works in the food industry.  It is a hell of a life, and you need to really love what you do.

I love, but I serve a much smaller clientele.  I am merely a man who enjoys food.  I live in the tiny city of Norwalk, Connecticut (a town with a greatly underrated restaurant scene), and I cook for my beautiful girlfriend Vanessa and our friend and housemate Sarah.   

My first and greatest influence as a chef is my mother, who is an amazing cook and a wonderful baker.  I am also the son of a doctor, which means that growing up, I was fortunate and taken to many nice restaurants.  Mom’s cooking and Dad’s treating at restaurants means that I’ve been eating well my whole life. 

Other food influences include my older brother, who, in restaurants as a boy, I always asked, “what are you getting?”  I learned a lot from his orderings.  Also there was is my aunt Liza, who lived in France, and taught by example how to eat well.  Then there was my college housemate, a real chef.  Many nights I would sit at the kitchen counter pretending to do homework as I watched Steve cook.  I would ask about every ingredient he used and what he was going to do with it.  By the time I graduated college, I was ready to cook on my own.

The results thus far have been rather delicious.

 (I also have a tremendously awesome sister, who, being a vegetarian most of childhood, is not so much a food influence – but she is pretty sweet, and deserves coolness props any way!)

But enough about my peoples, and enough about me.  This blog is not going to be about me.  It is about my plate.  

Let’s get to the meat!